If you’re hearing about the so-called salmon sperm facial, you’re not alone. The name may stop you on your track, but the skincare advantages and patients are serious about this celebrity’s beloved treatment. In a recent episode of the Beauty Bureau, New York dermatologist Elaine Kang, Maryland, joined us to explain what the ingredients in this topic are, how it works and how it can withstand the hype. Spoiler alert: Behind it is true science.
1. That’s not how it sounds.
No, this does not include rubbing fish on your face. “We’re not talking about going out to fish markets, buying salmon sperm, or plastering it all over our face,” says Dr. Kang. “That’s not anger.”
So, what is it really? “Salmon sperm DNA fragments are actually short-stranded DNA fragments called polyribonucleotides. So we use PDRN for short. They are actually extracted from salmon semen fluid and highly purified to make them cosmetic skincare,” she explains.
2. The advantages go beyond shine.
Whether used at home or at the dermatologist’s office, PDRN offers a variety of skin benefits. “We therefore consider the benefits at a more superficial level when we think of topical treatments like daily skincare items or as an adjunct to other procedures such as microneedling and laser procedures,” explains Dr. Kang. “So it’s a better skin texture and it’s also like a glow from the procedure. It has something like a nice bright effect.”
She says it could also help with common skin concerns. “It suits dry, dehydrated, sensitive skin, rosacea, some dullness, and uneven skin tones,” she says. “And PDRN is highly purified, so it’s not exciting.”
3. Collagen boost treatment works even better.
Our skin is designed to eliminate things, so applying PDRN alone is not that deep. “These sera work best when combined with treatments such as microneedling and lasers,” explains Dr. Kang. “It temporarily opens a barrier and allows the ingredients to penetrate where they need it.”
4. There is an injectable version, but not in the US yet
In Korea, PDRN is widely used in injectable form, and Rejuran is the most recognized brand. It is one of several salmon DNA-based injections on the market, but has become more popular with safety records and visible results. “In the injectable form, what we do is inject short DNA fragments derived from salmon sperm directly into the dermis, where there are fibroblasts that make collagen and elastin,” says Kang. “Or important skin cells that perform cell repair.”
She points out that injectable options could lead to more significant skin improvement. “I think the skin texture, tightness and firmness results are even better,” she says.
Rejuron was released in 2014 and has more than 10 years of safety data. “Rejuron has more than 10 years of safety data in Korea,” says Dr. Kung. “I think it’s actually coming (FDA approval). Of course, the FDA is conservative about us injecting products into patients…but I think it’s a difficult report that FDA approval won’t come soon.”
5. It is sustainable.
Despite its name, this is a highly refined ingredient that is safe for most skin types. “Salmon sperm is a by-product of the fishing industry,” explains Dr. Kang. “Instead of being discarded, DNA is extracted, upcycled and processed in a lab where it is being washed to remove anything that can cause ITRITAT,” she adds that PDRN works well with other ingredients such as vitamin C and retinoids, allowing it to layer without any problems.
6. You can try it out right now with skincare.
PDRN injections are not yet FDA approved, but topical options are already available in the US and have gained traction. From serum to moisturizers, more brands have developed salmon-derived DNA to support skin repair, hydration and the glow of its coveted glass skin.
Dr. Kang tested dozens of these products and brought back some of her favorites from Korea. “I really think PDRN is not exciting because it’s highly purified,” she says. “If you find a brand to put in a moisturizer, it really helps to give you a lovely radiant glow like the glass skin that people are talking about.”
It also layers seamlessly with other actives. “It works well with everything else we do for maintenance. It works well with Botox, skin fillers and lasers,” she adds. “If you actually get a product that contains PDRN as a moisturizer, it works very well with other favorite ingredients like vitamin C serum and retinoids.
What is her own routine? “Even today, I only wear sunscreen and vegan PDRN products,” she said during the chat. “There’s no makeup. That’s how good it is.”
