Last updated: July 20, 2026 by Thompson & Morgan Horticulture Team
Salvia ‘Royal Bumble’ blooms very freely, so it can be difficult to keep up with deadheading, but doing so will keep it blooming all summer long.
Image: Anneliese Brilli
Salvias are one of the most rewarding and easiest plants I grow. I have amassed a collection over the years and am busy taking cuttings of semi-hardy species as insurance against winter losses and to rejuvenate old plants. They root very easily, so why not start your own collection of this wonderful, long-flowering perennial.
For more inspiration, take a look at our full range of salvia plants.
Why grow semi-hardy salvia?
Salvia ‘Pink Amistad’ is a great new product for 2022, following the success of its close relative ‘Amistad’. Both are easy to grow and have a long flowering period.
Image: Thompson & Morgan
When I first saw salvia, I was immediately captivated. The flowers are distinctly shiny and jewel-like, thanks to the tiny light-reflecting hairs that cover their surfaces. This creates an extraordinary depth of color and is excellent for velvety purples, indigo and maroons. If you prefer cool colors, there are plenty of worthy options, including the new Pink Amistad. The variety of colors and habits makes it a versatile plant suitable for everything from cottage borders to tropical schemes, and is also perfect for containers.
Salvia blooms amazingly
Image: Anneliese Brilli
Salvias are also some of the longest flowering plants in my garden. If fed and watered well and kept regularly dead, many will bloom from June or July until the first frost. Once established, it is drought tolerant and grows well in well-drained soil, although very hot and dry summers will cause it to flower prematurely. In that case, prune it, give it plenty of water, and wait for a second bloom in late summer.
Salvias are pollinator magnets, making them perfect for attracting exotic insects such as the hummingbird hawkmoth.
Image: Canva
In addition to all these good properties, salvia flowers are loved by pollinating insects. Every summer, I pay attention to Salvia ‘Royal Bumble’. Its sweet nectar is the hummingbird’s favorite drink. On sunny days, this diurnal moth flies around the garden, stopping in front of flowers and sipping nectar with its long proboscis, like a hummingbird.
If all this isn’t enough, salvia also has fragrant leaves and delicious fruity varieties such as Salvia ‘Cerro Potosi’.
Salvia cold resistance
I’ve been testing the cold hardiness of salvias for years, and many varieties, including softer species like this Salvia fulgens, have proven to be surprisingly resilient.
Image: Anneliese Brilli
When I first started gardening, semi-hardy salvias were considered rare and somewhat difficult to grow due to their soft nature. There are many varieties now available, and it turns out that many of them can survive the winter, provided they have plenty of sun and well-drained soil. Salvia ‘Amistad’ can overwinter outdoors, even in my clay soil. However, they have a short lifespan, and some, like Amistad, become woody and deteriorate over time. However, don’t throw it away right away. Salvia is slow growing, so it may look a little disappointing come spring. Wait patiently until the weather warms up and growth begins.
Shrub salvias can be left in their top growth for some protection during the winter. When shooting begins in the spring, prune back to a lower frame. Normally, the thick stems of Salvia ‘Amistad’ will die completely, but if this happens, simply cut them off immediately and new shoots will emerge from the base.
The most tender species must be overwintered in a greenhouse. It’s a good candidate for patio containers because it can be easily moved under cover in late winter.
How to take salvia cuttings
preparation
Plucking the new shoots regularly from spring onwards will produce plenty of material for cuttings. Avoid applying additional fertilizer to stimulate new growth for cuttings. As a result, soft buds with high nitrogen content are formed, making it difficult for the plants to root. Cuttings must be “swollen” when taken. In other words, plant cells are completely swollen with water. Try to take it first thing in the morning, preferably on a boring day. If you see signs of water stress, water thoroughly the day before.
Harvesting cuttings
Avoid growing soft tips – they wilt quickly, do not root easily, and produce weak plants. Avoid thin, weak growth or old woody growth. Choose strong, actively growing shoots that are still flexible but will break if bent sharply.
Remove cutting material just above the node or leaf joint.
Image: Anneliese Brilli
Look for side buds that have no flowers. If this is not possible, be sure to remove the flower buds. When harvesting cutting material, cut just above the leaf node. This way, the original plant will be in good condition with no dead stumps. The material must have at least two leaf joints and be longer than the final cut. It will be cut back just before insertion.
Placing the cuttings in a plastic bag will prevent water loss.
Image: Anneliese Brilli
Immediately place the cuttings in a labeled plastic bag. Ideally, cut it right away and pot it up. If you’re late, you can store it in the fridge for a few hours. Cooling the cut material will aid its survival and successful rooting.
Cuttings and aftercare
Using perlite in your cutting mix allows for easier drainage, better aeration, and prevents your cuttings from rotting.
Image: Anneliese Brilli
Prepare a compost pot with a well-draining medium. We recommend a 50:50 mix of perlite and peat-free compost.
Cut the cutting just below the node using a sharp knife or scissors. The cuttings should be 5cm to 10cm long and have at least two leaf nodes or nodes.
Removing the lower leaves reduces water loss and makes cuttings easier.
Image: Anneliese Brilli
Remove the leaves from below the cut. Salvias root very easily and do not require rooting hormones.
Once you have collected the cuttings, plant them as soon as possible.
Image: Anneliese Brilli
Insert a few cuttings into each pot, label and date them Water them well
Place the cutting pot in a sealed polythene bag to create a humid environment.
Image: Anneliese Brilli
Place the cuttings in a clear polythene bag. Place the cuttings in bright light in a cool environment, rather than direct sunlight or a hot greenhouse. Adequate shade is important in the summer. Check the moisture level of your cuttings regularly and remove any dead leaves. Ventilate if fungal growth is occurring. The cuttings should root in 3-4 weeks. Once the roots are established, move them to individual pots filled with good peat-free compost. Grow in a frost-free environment during the winter to prepare for planting next spring.
Taking salvia cuttings will rejuvenate the plant into a young, vigorous plant. It also roots very easily, so you can give a lot to your friends. Browse Salvia plants online and start your collection.

Annelise Brilli is a horticulture copywriter at Thompson and Morgan. Anneliese caught the gardening bug when her mother’s small backyard was crammed with a plethora of plants. As an adult, she changed her career to horticulture and completed National Trust training at Powis Castle Gardens in Welshpool. She worked in a variety of private and public gardens and later ran a garden design and maintenance business. She has a passion for sustainable gardening and has developed her own wildlife-friendly garden, which opened as part of the Macmillan Coastal Garden Trail.
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