So, what does that mean for your skincare routine outside the doctor’s office? While most products that promote exosomes as active ingredients focus on rejuvenation and regeneration, claiming to address visible signs of aging, such as thin lines, wrinkles and skin relaxation, the science behind these claims is currently lacking.
Still, the hype continues to grow. Does something like this actually work? Should I worry about the safety of my product? Anyway, where do companies get all these exosomes from? We asked dermatologists and cosmetic chemists to give us ideas. Below are the eight biggest takeaways:
1. When you ask your dermatologist and chemist and ask about the benefits of exosome skin care products, you will get 13 different answers.
When I first began reporting on the role exosomes play in skincare, I received responses expressed with phrases such as “they might do this,” or “In theory, they’re…”.
Dr. Nussbaum hopes that exosomes enhance the skin repair process. Compared to other topical skin care components, Dr. Mahmer says exosomes may be able to survive longer in skin protective environments due to their protective structures. Corey L. Hartman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Birmingham, Alabama, is not very sure of their abilities. “We don’t even think that exosomes penetrate so deeply that they’re effective,” he says.
2. One thing many of them can agree: Exosome products crash into the market too quickly.
Let’s not get in the way. No one we spoke to could clearly say that exosome skin care products were working. Dr. Schlesinger says there are too many unknowns to confidently attribute the benefits seen when used in commercially available localized skincare exosomes. “Everyone in clinical dermatology and research dermatology is saying the same thing. Science is needed,” he says. “We want these companies to create data.”
“I think the hype feels like it outweighs the proven results. Maybe about 70% hype and 30% science.”
Dr. Marmer agrees. “On the other hand, exosomes represent a novel and promising approach to skin regeneration,” she says. Meanwhile, these launches “outperform science.” She continues, “I think the hype will outweigh the proven results. Maybe about 70% hype and 30% science.”
3. The exosomes in the product are usually from three organic sources.
human
Some products have been injected with exosomes or platelets from the blood produced from human stem cells. Dr. Mahmoor explains that in theory, “human exosomes speak the same language as our own cells,” making it easier to deliver messages such as collagen and increased healing and cause changes. However, the material within the exosome, which is derived from organic sources (such as human stem cells), will vary depending on the exact source.
