The Dermatologist’s Cookbook: A guide to whitening, tightening, and curing acne.

The Dermatologist's Cookbook: A guide to whitening, tightening, and curing acne.

We all know that skin problems don’t magically end the moment you graduate from high school, and worse, new problems appear as you get older. When you finally get over the acne-prone skin of your youth, there comes a time when fine lines, dull skin, and adult acne appear.

If you’re wondering, Miami dermatologist Dr. Deborah Longwill has the perfect recipe to brighten, tighten, and revitalize your skin. Plus, it’s the gold standard for fighting hormonal acne.

Why is my skin dull?

“If you’re in your 30s or 40s and are struggling with dull skin, there are several possible causes,” explains Dr. Longwill. “At this age, you are more likely to experience dehydration, which may be related to diet, smoking, or environmental influences.”

If you live in a highly polluted area or experience frigid winters, you may have started noticing a duller appearance of your skin.

“Darkness can be caused by rubbing your skin too hard or by simple hormonal changes,” says Dr. Longwill. “Post-pregnancy and menopause are very common times to experience a noticeable lack of shine.”

Dull skin is usually accompanied by changes in pigmentation, but the way to know for sure is to look at how your skin looks in the sun.

“When light hits your face, it doesn’t reflect the way you want it to,” Dr. Longwill explains. “It’s that dull look.”

how to brighten

“By the time someone comes to me with a pigmentation problem, they have usually tried many over-the-counter medications and are ready to see results,” says Dr. Longwill.

That means you can start an effective skin care routine right away.

At home:

“The routine typically includes a prescription for hydroquinone,” Dr. Longwill explains. “We may administer Retin A several times a week rather than every night to avoid dryness.”

Of course, some patients have tried hydroquinone for a while without success. Thankfully, there are alternatives with a proven track record of effectiveness.

“They tend to be more natural and contain arbutin, vitamin C, and other plant substances,” Dr. Longwill says. “And while these non-prescription products typically don’t penetrate as deeply or as concentrated, they still offer great benefits, especially when used in conjunction with a prescription.”

In the office:

For Dr. Longwill, one of the best solutions to dull skin is Broadband Light (BBL) treatment.

“BBL targets hyperpigmentation and broken capillaries, helping to soothe seborrheic dermatitis and rosacea, ultimately giving your skin a glow and glow,” she explains.

BBL’s intense pulsed light targets sunspots and redness, and there is also the option to treat active acne breakouts.

“I love using BBL to treat acne,” says Dr. Longwill. “Then we recommend N-litelaser, which can target cystic acne, pustular acne, and acne scars.”

How to tighten

When we talk about skin tightening, it’s important to understand what’s possible through products, in-office treatments, and surgery.

“Over-the-counter and home products can help you maintain your results,” explains Dr. Longwill. “But no product actually tightens sagging skin as much as in-office treatments and eventually surgery.”

At home:

That doesn’t mean at-home care isn’t an important part of your overall skin care routine.

“I personally love the Doctor’s Daughter duo combination: Extremolyte Stem Cell Serum and Papaya Enzyme Peel,” says Dr. Longwill. “This combination is great for maintenance and helps build and maintain collagen and elastin fibers in the skin, resulting in firmer skin and increased radiance.”

Dr. Longwill’s Doctor’s Daughter skin care line includes Extremolyte Stem Cell Serum and Papaya Enzyme Peel, both formulated with high-quality ingredients designed to rejuvenate and nourish your skin.

In the office:

The steps above products and below surgical solutions are just some of the energy-based treatments and volumizing options available in our office.

“There is a lot you can do with energy-based devices like Sofwave and options like Fraxel to build collagen and muscle fibers,” explains Dr. Longwill. “There are also filler options like Juvederm and biostimulators like Sculptra that tighten the skin at a predetermined volume.”

Although it does not remove sagging skin like a surgical facelift, it is often recommended before and after surgery as it plays a very important role in restoring balance to the face.

“Even after achieving the desired surgical result, patients often return to the dermatologist to have minor adjustments, such as Botox, applied to specific areas that could not be fully adjusted with surgery,” says Dr. Longwill. says.

Why do I still get acne?

Hormonal acne isn’t limited to teenagers. Unfortunately, various hormonal changes throughout our lives can cause acne flare-ups.

“Conditions like polycystic ovary syndrome involve a variety of hormonal changes that can lead to acne,” Dr. Longwill explains. “Additionally, adult women and men who have acne on their backs and chests usually suffer from hormonal acne.”

If your dermatologist suspects that you have a hormonal imbalance, he will likely order blood tests.

“You can then consider whether to use oral medications to reduce androgen levels, which may be responsible for increased sebum levels,” says Dr. Longwill. “Or, more commonly, there’s spironolactone, which we take orally and topically.”

However, Dr. Longwill emphasizes that these treatments are often only a temporary solution. “These prescriptions act as a Band-Aid,” she says. “I want to get to the root of the problem that causes hormonal acne. That’s why I perform blood tests and work closely with patients to discover any hormone disruptors they may encounter. .”

If your hormonal acne doesn’t respond to spironolactone, which is considered the gold standard of treatment, it may not actually be hormonal acne.

“Rosacea does not respond well to spironolactone,” Dr. Longwill explains. “In those cases, there are other targeted regimens that can more effectively address the symptoms.”

Don’t let skin problems get you down. From at-home care to professional in-office treatments, there’s always an effective solution to achieving your most radiant skin.

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